I-Lace Ribbon Trim
I-lace iwuhlobo lokufekethiswa, owaziwa nangokuthi "umdwebo".Kungumkhiqizo ongenalutho wokuhlobisa owenziwe ngentambo kakotini, intambo ye-hemp, intambo kasilika noma izindwangu ezihlukahlukene, ezifekethisiwe noma ezilukiwe.
Ukuhlobisa Ileyisi Ukunquma
Kunamaphethini namaphethini ahlukahlukene, asetshenziswa njengezindwangu zokuhlobisa iribhoni, ezisetshenziswa njengezindwangu noma imingcele yezingubo ezihlukahlukene, amakhethini, izindwangu zetafula, okombhede, amalambu, okokulala, njll. Ileyisi ihlukaniswe yaba izigaba ezine: ukuluka umshini, ukunitha, ukufekethiswa nokuluka.I-lace ehlanganiswe nentambo kasilika isetshenziswa kakhulu phakathi kwezinhlanga ezincane ezweni lakithi, ngakho-ke ibizwa nangokuthi i-ethnic lace.Iningi lamaphethini lisebenzisa amaphethini amahle.I-lace elukiwe inokwakheka okuqinile, iphethini enezinhlangothi ezintathu nemibala ecebile.Ileyisi elukiwe inokwelukwa okuxekethile kanye nama-eyelets avelele ukuze kubonakale ukukhanya nokubukeka kahle.Inombolo yemibala ye-embroidery lace ayinqunyelwe, futhi amaphethini ayinkimbinkimbi angakhiqizwa.I-lace eboshwe yenziwa ngomshini we-lace noma ngesandla.
I-Chinese Lace
I-lace yaseShayina iqale sekwephuzile kakhulu.Ngaphambi kweminyaka yawo-1980, imishini yokweluka intambo yayithengwa kakhulu emazweni angaphandle.Ekuqaleni kwawo-1990, iNantong, iJiangsu yathatha izici zemishini yangaphandle, kuhlanganiswe nesimo sangempela saseShayina, futhi yathuthukisa ngokuzimela umshini wokuqala weleyisi wezwe wami we-A, futhi yadlula i-Shenzhen Lace Factory njengeyunithi yomshayeli.Kusukela lapho, inkinga yokuthi imishini ye-lace yaseShayina idinga ukungeniswa isiphelile.
I-Lace Classification
Ileyisi enamathela, ileyisi ye-Qingzhoufu (ihlukaniswe yaba izinhlobo ezimbili zeleyisi yemangong neleyisi ye-mosaic), ukufekethiswa okuyisicaba okuyisicaba, uleyisi we-shuttle, i-Jimo lace, ileyisi ebanjwa ngesandla, ileyisi ye-EMI, ileyisi yokufekethisa, ileyisi elukiwe, ileyisi elukwe ngomshini... I-Mangong i-lace yenziwe ngentambo kakotini ecolisisiwe, futhi ilukwa ibe amaphethini ahlukahlukene kanokusho ngokuluka okuyisicaba, ukwaluka ngokwezikhala, ukwaluka okungatheni, namasu okuluka aminyene, futhi iyonke inomphumela wobuciko womsebenzi ovulekile.Ileyisi ye-mosaic yenziwe ngeleyisi elukiwe njengomzimba oyinhloko, futhi ihlotshiswe ngendwangu yelineni.Imikhiqizo ihlanganisa ama-cushions amapuleti, okufakwayo okuncane nezindwangu zetafula, okombhede, izambulela zobuciko bezintambo, njll.
I-United States ingeyokuqala ukuvela i-lace.Ukwenza kuyinqubo eyinkimbinkimbi.Ngokungafani ne-crochet yendabuko noma i-embroidery, izincwadi ziboshwe ngentambo kasilika noma intambo ngokuvumelana nomphumela wephethini.Lapho uwenza, intambo kasilika idinga ukudluliselwa kumashuttle amancane ngamunye ngamunye.I-shuttle ngayinye ilingana nesithupha kuphela.Iphethini engaxakile kangako idinga inqwaba noma cishe ikhulu lawa ma-shuttle amancane, futhi iphethini enkulu idinga amakhulu amashuttle amancane.Lapho wenza, beka iphethini phansi, futhi usebenzise ukwelukwa okuhlukile, ukubopha, ukugoqa kanye namanye amasu ukuze wenze ngokuvumelana nephethini.
I-Jacquard Lace
(UJacquard, uJoseph Marie, 1752 ~ 1834), umdwebi wezintambo zesiFulentshi, umguquleli oyinhloko womshini we-jacquard wephethini.Ekuqaleni kwekhulu le-18, umdwebi ongumFulentshi u-Bouchon wadala umshini we-jacquard we-paper-hole ngokusekelwe kumgomo womshini wasendulo wamaShayina we-jacquard wesandla.Wasebenzisa itheyiphu yephepha ukuze abhoboze izimbobo ukuze alawule ukungena kwethiphu futhi ashintshe izindawo zokuluka ezisontekile encwadini yezimbali.Ngemuva kokuthuthukiswa kwe-Falcon, i-Wo Kangsong nabanye, ingakhiqiza izinaliti ezingu-600 zezindwangu zamaphethini amakhulu.Ngo-1799, u-Jacquard wahlanganisa izimpumelelo ezintsha zabanduleli futhi wenza isethi ephelele yomshini wokudlulisela amakhadibhodi, owawunomshini ophelele we-pedal jacquard, owawukwazi ukuluka amaphethini amakhulu ngezinaliti ezingaphezu kuka-600 ngumuntu oyedwa kuphela.Lo mshini we-jacquard wawina indondo yethusi e-Paris Exhibition ngo-1801. Umshini wawo ubonakala ngokusebenzisa ibhodi lephethini ye-jacquard, okungukuthi, ikhadi elinembobo esikhundleni se-tape yephepha, ukushayela ukulandelana okuthile kwamahhuku e-thimble ngokusebenzisa umshini wokudlulisela, futhi ukuphakamisa intambo yokuluka ukuze kweluke iphethini ngokwesenzo esididiyelwe senhlangano yephethini.Ngemuva kuka-1860, amandla esitimu asetshenziswa esikhundleni sokuhamba nge-pedal futhi aba umshini we-jacquard ozenzakalelayo.Kamuva, yasakazwa kabanzi emazweni asemhlabeni wonke, futhi yaqalwa ngenjini kagesi.Ukuze ukhumbule umnikelo kaJacquard, lo mshini we-jacquard ubizwa ngokuthi umshini we-Jacquard.
I-Cotton Lace Trim
I-lace kakotini ibizwa nangokuthi: i-lace yekotini ehlanzekile, i-lace eboshwe, i-cotton lace, i-cotton lace.Ileyisi kakotini yenziwe ngokuyinhloko ngentambo kakotini, kanti intambo kakotini inezinhlobo ezimbili: ezicwebezelisiwe nezingacwebezeli.Ukucaciswa kwayo kungokulandelayo ngokwezindinganiso zochwepheshe: izintambo ezingama-42 zibala imicu emi-4 nemicu engu-6, izintambo ezingu-60 zibala imicu emi-4 nemicu engu-6, izintambo ezimhlophe ze-waxy tower, njll..Izinhlobo zayo yi-S424, S426, S604, S606, futhi ingaqoshwa njenge-42S/4, 42S/6, 60S/4, 60S/6, lapho u-S ekhombisa intambo yokubala, futhi inombolo engaphansi kwe-slash ikhombisa inombolo imicu;Izimo ezihlukene zingahlukaniswa zibe ushizi kanye ne-hank.
Imishini eyinhloko yokukhiqiza ye-"disc machine" ye-lace kakotini: imininingwane eyinhloko yamanje yizinsika ezingama-64, ama-spindle angu-96 kanye nama-spindle angu-128.Umgomo wokusebenza komshini wediski ukuluka izinzipho.Isebenzisa intambo kakotini njengento eyinhloko eluhlaza.Izinto zomshini we-disc nazo ziyizintambo zemvelo ezifana nekotini, ilineni, uboya kanye nosilika, kanye nezintambo zamakhemikhali ze-fiber, izintambo ze-fiber zamakhemikhali, izintambo zegolide nezesiliva, i-rayon, intambo yesitayela sembali, intambo enezintambo, i-glitter, u-anyanisi wesiliva, intambo yeribhoni.Ileyisi kakotini yenziwe ngentambo kakotini yeqophelo eliphezulu, enombala osheshayo, ubuciko obuhle, umuzwa wesandla esithambile, iphethini yenoveli, nezitayela ezahlukahlukene.Isetshenziswa kakhulu kobhodisi, izingubo zangaphansi, izingubo zokulala, imfashini, izingubo zokulala, amasokisi, izambulela, amathoyizi nemisebenzi yezandla.
I-Mechanism Lace Ukunquma
Ileyisi elukwe ngemishini ehlukahlukene.
Ekupheleni kwekhulu le-18, ekuthuthukiseni ama-stocking looms, iYurophu yazama ukusebenzisa imishini ukukhiqiza i-lace.Ngo-1808, abaseBrithani
Umshini wokukhiqiza ama-mesh braids wasungulwa futhi waziwa eminyakeni emibili kamuva.Ngo-1813, i-Nottingham, eNgilandi yasungula indwangu yokweluka eyenziwe ngokhuni enomshini we-jacquard, engakhiqiza ama-mesh braids anephethini, aziwa ngokuthi umshini we-Rivers, futhi selokhu yabizwa kuze kube manje.Ngo-1846, kwavela uhlaka lwentambo yekhethini e-Nottingham.Kungakabiphi, kwaphuma imishini ekwazi ukuluka izindwangu zokuhlobisa ezehlukene zikaleyisi.Kusukela ngo-1900 kuya ku-1910, imboni yeleyisi eyenziwe ngomshini eYurophu yayichuma kakhulu.Imishini ingalingisa imiphumela yeleyisi eyenziwe ngesandla ehlukahlukene.Kusukela ngaleso sikhathi, i-lace eyenziwe ngomshini ithathe indawo ye-lace eyenziwe ngesandla.Ileyisi eyenziwe ngomshini ingahlukaniswa izigaba ezine ngokuya ngenqubo: ukuluka, ukunitha, ukufekethisa, nokuluka.
① Ileyisi elukiwe
Yakhiwa nge-interweaving warp kanye ne-weft ngaphansi kokulawulwa kwe-jacquard mechanism.Izinto ezisetshenziswayo ezivame ukusetshenziswa yintambo kakotini, intambo yegolide nesiliva, intambo ye-rayon, intambo ye-polyester, intambo kasilika ye-tussah, njll. Indwangu yokweluka ingakwazi ukuluka izintambo eziningi ngesikhathi esisodwa, noma iziluke zibe imicu eyodwa bese izihlukanisa zibe imicu.Ububanzi beleyisi buyi-3 ~ 170mm.Ama-lace shading weaves ahlanganisa i-plain, twill, satin, i-honeycomb, amaphethini amancane, njll. I-lace elukiwe inokuthungwa okuqinile, umumo wembali we-dimensional emithathu nemibala ecebile.
② Ileyisi elukiwe
Ngo-1955, amazwe aseYurophu naseMelika aqala ukukhiqiza i-lace elukiwe emishini yokuluka yama-warp amaningi.Iningi lezinto zokusetshenziswa ziyizintambo zenayiloni, intambo ye-polyester, njll.I-lace knitted ikhululekile, enezimbobo ezicacile, futhi ukuma kukhanya futhi kuhle.
③Ileyisi yokufekethisa
Yaqala ukudalwa eSwitzerland kanye naseFederal Republic of Germany.Ilawula umshini wokufekethisa ukuthi uye phezulu, phansi, kwesokunxele, nakwesokudla ebhodini lephethini, futhi ngokushintshana okuzenzakalelayo kwenaliti kanye ne-shuttle, intambo engaphezulu kanye nentambo engezansi kuxhunywe ukwenza iphethini.Ileyisi yokufekethisa inomsebenzi omuhle, umumo wembali ogqamile kanye nomphumela oqinile wezinhlangothi ezintathu.
④ Ileyisi elukiwe
Ilukwe ngomshini we-torque lace.Intambo kakotini yiyona nto eyinhloko.Ngesikhathi sokweluka, ikhadibhodi lilawula ukusonteka nokunyakaza kwe-spool, ukuze izintambo zihlanganiswe ndawonye zenze iphethini.Umshini weleyisi we-torque ungaluka imicu eminingi yeleyisi ngesikhathi esisodwa, futhi ususe ukuxhumana phakathi kwezintambo ngemuva kokuphuma emshinini ukuze wenze umucu owodwa.Ukuthungwa kweleyisi elukiweyo kukhululekile futhi kunomoya, futhi umumo ushelela futhi muhle.
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